I found the old matchbook lying on a desk.

It was buried under some papers, beside a thick, water-logged book frozen solid in the January chill. I ran my fingers down its spine and read the title: "How to Run A Successful Golf Course."

The owner of the Penn Hills Resort in the Poconos probably hadn't followed whatever advice the author had to offer. They boarded the place up years ago, and there's a gaping hole in the roof of his old office. Muted greens and yellows, shag carpeting peek at me through a sheet of ice.

The matchbook, which looks to be from the 60's, is about half empty—whoever was sitting here when this place finally went under surely needed a smoke.